I am on my holidays. P has a simple philosophy: she does not feel as if she is on holiday unless she is exhausted at the end of each day. However simple the philosophy, I simply cannot understand it. For me it is not a holiday unless at the end of the day I have a cold beer in my hand and somebody (anybody) is gently massaging the soles of my feet.
Since she was a girl, P’s family have been exhausting themselves in the pursuit of relaxation in Torridon; a village in the Western Highlands of Scotlands. The Glen leading to Loch Torridon has a certain grim magnificence, It looks like God ran out of time on a Friday afternoon and left it rough and unfinished. There is little vegetation and what there is is grass hardened against the weather and tough enough to slice through the sole of your shoe.
In this Glen once lived Highlanders. They were funnelled at gunpoint down the Glen and to the edge of the Loch by landowners who had concluded that the land was better used for feeding sheep than Scotsmen on the incontestable basis that the sheep were generally better behaved and had a higher retail value. Some of those dispossessed moved to Canada where, having previously been irascible and warlike because of an ill-founded insecurity that they were inferior to their English neighbours to the South, they became friendly and pacific because an ill-founded security that they were superior to their American neighbours to the South. Those who remained were made ever more surly and resentful by a combination of there being no Ice Hockey to watch and the presence of “the midge”. The singular is misleading. These tiny insects rise in stupefying swarms at dusk and suck either blood from your skin or the tears from your eyeballs (depending on how difficult a day they’ve had). Within a second of the sky beginning to darken you feel your scalp begin to crawl. Unfortunately, I mean that literally rather than merely figuratively. Immediately thereafter nerve endings in every exposed patch of skin start reporting in that all is not well and shortly thereafter you go mad.
Now I know no-one likes a know-it-all but one does feel like taking the Scots aside and saying “Why in Heaven’s name are you living here? Daily blood-suckings from insects too small to see?! You could be in California in under 24 hours. Go pack!” This is entirely to misunderstand the Scots who revel in misery. They are proud of the midge and can barely stifle their glee as another Japanese tourist in Burberry plus fours leaps into the peaty broth of the Loch in search of relief. Donnie, the owner of the tiny shop is a case in point. He is not a cheery Mormon with a dazzling smile and some irritating tuneful brothers. He is, instead, a flinty-eyed man with a history of ill-health that makes it unwise ever to ask him how he is. Somehow, though, through all the gruffness he makes you feel welcome and the fact that it seems hardwon somehow makes it seem all the truer and more valuable. That’s why I said yes to coming here again this year. Deep down I like the Scots. Can’t help it.