Today London is being lashed by wind and rain. The streets around our temporary home are empty and the only noise is the hissing of cars up and down the Kingston Road. Penny is out riding her horse and trying to avoid thinking about preparing her case for tomorrow. The cat is lying stretched out on the carpet at the top of the staircase sleeping and snoring with a soft whistle. I am nursing a cold and wishing I was by the sea.
Until I went to university I lived by water. From ages three to seven I lived in Gravesend, a town with a viking name in the lower tidal reaches of the Thames. I remember it as a gloomy marshy place in whose embrace, with a startling flash of glamour, Pocohontas had died. For a time it had enjoyed a reputation as good place for Londoners to holiday. It was sufficiently removed from London that the sea had diluted the effluent in the Thames and removed the risk of Cholera. Families paddled in the mudbanks or stood wind-blown on the salt marsh as tall ships moved creaking up and down the great river travelling to and from the outer reaches of the empire. Charles Dickens had a home there and the bleakness of the Kent river coast features repeatedly in his works. It is, for instance, by Gravesend that he has Pip row Magwitch in the hope of getting him aboard a steamer in Great Expectations.
At age seven I moved to Frinton-on-sea. Frinton is well-known in South East England as an eccentric bastion of middle-class values. It developed from a small village from the turn of the last century and peaked in the 1920s. It was a place for senior civil servants and bankers to retire to. Grand houses and still grander hotels had been built. It was bounded by the railway and to get into the town you had to cross a level crossing with a gate that had to be opened and closed by the station master every time a train passed. Within the gates no public houses were allowed (though there is one now). Instead what flourished was tennis and golf, drinks at the Memorial Club and Sunday School. Frinton has a long esplanade with a greensward running two or so miles in length. A steep slope runs from the greensward to the sea and strung along the slope are lines of carefully-maintained wooden beach huts.
As a child I adored the sea. When school stopped for summer we would dash down the seaweed covered steps onto the shingle and kick through the tidepools at the water’s edge. We would sit and let the green North Sea waves break over our heads and shriek as they lifted us and pushed up the beach. The more adventurous would swim to the rafts chained to the seabed a 100 metres or so from shore and lie on our backs watching the clouds dissipate in a sky so blue it hurt to look at it.
Come July university students would arrive to teach bible stories to us and lead us through town on fancy-dress treasure hunts.
As I grew older I became fonder still of other seasons. The walk along the seawall in the aftermath of a Christmas gale with grey waves breaking hard and throwing spray 10 yards into the air left you breathless and with skin stinging with salt. I loved the early autumn when the dusk gathered earlier and earlier and I would sit with friends in the wooden shelters on Victorian benches and we would let the breaking of the waves dictate the pace of our breathing. There in front of us was a body of water made up of countless molecules all in ceaseless agitation; the whole sea dragged by the moon and yet it could somehow communicate only calm.
Landlocked now and on days like today I miss it terribly.
