Sister

Like many Scots P appears to be part salmon and come Christmas she is overtaken by a instinctual imperative to struggle back to her spawning ground. In consequence the Moobses tend to meet a couple of weeks before the big day and have an ersatz yuletide. This year my sister C came over from Holland with her kids. When I opened the front door C’s little son Sam came spinning in to the house full of excitement. Behind him was, to my amazement, my sister C but as she had once been: an auburn-haired three year old bright-eyed and purposeful. It was as if someone had torn time apart and she had stepped from her childhood into my middle age. It was Emma, C’s daughter. Emma stepped forward and gave my leg a hug.

C was 40 last week. Her life has been neither straightforward nor easy. As a child she was fearless. When, at age 6, I clung to Mum’s flared trouser leg and refused to go and spend a weekend with my grandparents, C simply climbed into the back of their car and waited for them to get under way.There has always been something of a psychological division between the boys and the girls in my family. My brother and I are blatherers and, at heart, a little fearful. Sometimes the fear works for us. Faced with examinations we get scared and get working. C, who is almost certainly the brightest of the four of us, did less well academically. This was partly born of the blows to self-confidence that my father was so adept at delivering and partly because she didn’t fear the consequences of doing badly. C is, at heart, a tender soul and is easily wounded but she responds to each affront with fire and defiance. What she has in common with all the Moobs kids is that she is an expert in everything and will not let the actual experience of others get in the way of her lecturing them about their own area of expertise. The four of us probably account for about 80% of the world’s remaining reserves of lightly-informed but loudly-declared opinions (17% being stored in London cab drivers).

When she was old enough for high school, C went off to a convent boarding school. Had I been sent to boarding school I would have wet myself nightly and ending up choking to death on self-pitying poems about abandonment. C appeared to thrive. There came a time when my Father felt that the results being achieved were not matching the outlay on fees and poor C was taken from the school and dumped into a pitifully inadequate pseudo-school run in a house in our local town. The candy-striped dresses and straw boaters that the schoolgirls were made to wear demonstrated that even in the context of a town inclined to see a walkman as the hand-tooled instrument of the devil and rush, pitchfork in hand, to fend off modernity, the school was a laughable anachronism. The purpose of the school seemed to be to turn out women with enough education to equip them to entertain when throwing dinner-parties for their executive husbands. It should not have been surprising, therefore, when C announced, well short of her eighteenth birthday, that she was getting married.The lucky man was doughy polyp called Ian. He was barely older than C and was starting out as a car mechanic. In a nod to tradition he called upon my father and asked for permission to marry. I vivdly remember Ian trudging into our sitting room, where my Father lay waiting for him. It was all handled with considerable formality, the opening question being, improbably, “Do you play golf?” Ian did not play golf. I doubt that much affected the outcome but he was told no. C, characteristically, told us she was getting married anyway and moved out, taking up a job in a residential care home. There was an engagement party and she acquired a ring from Ian but had a change of heart and moved instead to London. London was so remote and so different a place, we could not have been more surprised if she had jumped up and started floating towards the moon. Again, she was utterly fearless and set about a career as a nanny.

I was still at university when she announced that she was pregnant. The father was a man called Alan who was from Hull or Hartlepool. He proved to be utterly feckless and fecked back off north instantly. This did nothing to deflect C from her march to motherhood. I don’t recall her expressing so much as a doubt let alone regret about the turn her life had taken. Whilst I was only then taking my first wobbly steps into the world of adult relationships, C seemed to have grown up fast enough to shoot past me and over the horizon. I did not feel like her older brother. C gave birth to Charlotte, her first daughter, far too early and she was stillborn. Charlotte’s scintilla of a life produced a single polaroid and a hole in our hearts.

C picked herself up and resumed her nannying. She was comforted by a man named Mark with whom she moved in. Mark too was something of a pudding. He was capable of sitting inert watching television with such focus that even C’s increasingly strident scolding did nothing to rouse him into trying to make something of their lives together. At one point, to our amazement, he stood up from the armchair and went on a hiking holiday abroad with some friends. C slipped a tape cassette into his rucksack full of songs, alternately angry and doleful, complaining of abandonment. Heaven only knows what went through his mind when he turned on his walkman and heard “Love Don’t Live Here Anymore”.

C is now married to another Ian. That is a story for another time. She has grown into an excellent mother: She is tender and patient with her children and they are thriving. Seeing her hold Emma’s tiny hand as they walked together to the garden gate made life somehow ring like a guitar harmonic.

C has some strange ways. In particular, in recollection she rewrites the past as a melodramatic soap opera. I was, for instance, surprised to learn that I had, apparently, spent my time at university yearning with unrequited love for Princess Charlotte of Luxembourg. Dodgy though her memory may be, I adore her. I gave a speech at her wedding and said something that will always be true: They say you can choose your friends but you cannot choose your family, but if I could choose my own sister I would choose C.

Christmas

As the freezing fog gathers in the meadow and the log crackles in the grate, what better time to settle in the inglenook with a small glass of brandy and ask oneself the big questions? I take a little sip, let the fire’s radiant heat warm my cockles and begin to ponder. The first teaser is an issue that has troubled man since first we swung down from the trees:

“How, Dear Sweet Lord of Mercy, can one body produce so much snot and phlegm?”

It has been a big month for me. A few weeks ago I was stood in front of the bathroom mirror squinting at my reflection through my fingers when I spotted something. Looking down, I exclaimed:

“What the +*^% is that?”.

Something unfamiliar was dangling from me. It turned out to be my first grey chest hair. I decided not to let it bother me. A few days later I was trying to persuade P that we should go to London Loves – a blogger friendly club night – and shake our booties till dawn. She gazed at me with an exquisite pity and I shambled off to scroll through the viagra spam in my inbox utterly defeated.

It was at that point that I had my moment of revelation: For too long I have been deferring gratification – putting things off. Why shouldn’t I go dancing? Why shouldn’t I start doing all the things I’ve always meant to do but been too timorous or too “sensible” to take on. It was all so clear to me. Then came a second epiphany: It’s here … the mid-life crisis. I felt the back of my head to see if a pony-tail had already begun to sprout.

What revelations has this year held for you?

Burp

Once we had finished examining the many hundred Santa Claus figurines, it was time to find someone to whom we could give the film. I set up the laptop, slipped in the DVD and knocked on the door of the office. A junior member of staff appeared, looking bemused. It became apparent she had no English and there was no arranging my 5 words of Japanese into an explanation of what it was we wanted. I resorted to pointing at the screen whilst saying “sumimasen” in a reassuring tone.

I ran the film and her eyes flicked back and forth from the images to us. P and I were frenziedly engaged in synchronised pointing at the floor whilst saying “here, here!” with a vehemence that the staff member was finding unnerving. The key to communication with people who don’t speak English is, of course, volume and repetition as any fule no.

After a minute or so a shot of the exterior of the house appeared and the yen dropped for her. “Oh” she said. Then “oh” again. She fetched a colleague who had a peek at the screen and then said “oh”. They put their hands over their mouths and said “Aaaaaaahhh”. The colleague had a little English: “Here?” she asked “Yes, yes” said Penny and I, sounding like Teletubbies. “Oh” she said.

I extracted the disc and, with a bow, presented it to them. “For you, for you!” said Penny, her pointing finger now levelled menacingly at them.

They bowed and delivered what I took to be a extravagantly lengthy thank you. My work was done. I packed up the laptop, and headed for the loo before we began our journey back to our hotel. As I walked to the restroom a low rumble could just be heard. The sound was a warning; a tidal wave of Japanese formal gratitude was rising from the sea of politeness and roaring toward us.

When I came back whistling, I found Penny had been bundled into the bridal reception suite and given tea and biscuits. “How nice” I thought “some tea”. This, for a British person, is the very apogee of gratitude and was much appreciated.

At that point an employee appeared with an envelope. It had in it our entrance fee. That too was kind, but, we thought a bit too much like “fuss”. We demurred but they insisted. We were frightened to appear rude so accepted the return of our money. That was how it began: a monumental clash of culture. British people, as you may know, hate fuss. Many is the visitor to London who claims to find us “cool” and “aloof”. In most cases the relevant English person simply is just an unfriendly bastard. However, for the most part what counts as the sort of bare minimum interaction that sworn blood enemies might engage in on any street, in any city in, any country in the world would seem, to British eyes, a disproportionate and embarassing public display of affection. The Japanese, on the other hand,when given even minor cause for gratitude, feel the need to make as much fuss as their mortal frame allows.

Before we had finished our tea we had a message: The owner of the castle wished to meet us and was on his way over. He must, we suggested hopefully, be too busy to meet us. No, it appeared he had cleared his diary and wanted to see the film and meet us as soon as possible. He was some 10 miles away in Numata City. This boded ill. It meant a very great deal more fuss. P and I girded ourselves. The Japanese are delightful, effusive people. They are, frankly, an admirable example to us. The problem was that coming from a society full of surly misanthropes and people repressed to the point of explosion, we are simply ill-equipped to cope. 

A woman appeared and told us that she was the manager of the castle; A Miss Ono. She was, she said, delighted to meet us. We then spent several minutes bowing to each other. There were no words, she said, to describe how grateful they were that we had come all that way to deliver the film to them. This was worrying. We had not come to Japan for this reason alone and we were anxious to play that impression down. The plan we learned, had changed. Mr Hirai also owned an hotel in Numata and we were to go there for lunch. Miss Ono drove us to Numata chatting happily about her time in Wyoming whilst we gazed wistfully at the receding image of our hire car.

Arriving at the hotel we found Mrs Hirai sniffing oxygen from a little machine in the hotel lobby. She greeted us effusively and the bowing recommenced. Mr Hirai, an enormously dapper man, then appeared. Accompanied by Ms Ono and the Chief Receptionist there was an exchange of business cards followed by a brisk lunch at which the film was replayed. The Hirais had good English but relied upon Miss Ono to translate.

P, like any good British woman was experiencing some sensitivity about social class. She did not want the Hirais to think her family were members of the landed gentry and explained at agonising length that her family had merely rented the house for a number of years. Ms Ono listened carefully and then conveyed all this information to Mr Hirai. He looked impressed.He then formulated a question which, to P’s horror, translated as: “So, are you a member of the Royal Family?”

Mr H then turned his mind to just what fuss might be created. He wanted us to stay, he said, as his guests in the hotel that night. That, we said, was charming and very kind but we were already staying in an hotel. He looked hurt. How about the next day? We were driving, we told him, to Matsumoto which was some 200 miles away. “Ah!” he exclaimed. Mrs H would like to drive us there herself. The notion of Mrs Hirai having to do a  400 mile round trip was clean off the fuss scale. We were sorry, we said, but we had a hire car that had to be dropped off in Matsumoto and so we would have to drive ourselves. That was no problem, they would have a member of their staff drive our hire car to Matsumoto. At this point I began to whimper. Picking my way through a minefield of possible offence I persuaded then that that was simply too kind. Miss Ono reported that they wanted to find a way to thank us and they sat brooding on the topic.

After lunch they took us to a photo studio and we had a formal group photograph taken by their professional wedding photographer. The resulting picture was intended, surreally, go on display in the museum. The photographer did overtime to develop the image and the hotel manager got up early to hand deliver it to us the following day. All this kindness was beginning to make me fell slightly demented.

Over the next few days we had a number of phone calls asking, ominously, who our travel agents were. I had no idea why the Hirais wanted that information but it couldn’t be good. Arriving at our final destination: Okinawa, we had begun to relax. The Busena Terrace Hotel is pleasant seaside resort hotel with a very good French restaurant (now with real Frenchmen!) A smiling woman greeted us at reception, bowing as she moved towards us. She had been called by the Hirais. There followed a maelstrom of fuss which ended with us sat in the French Restaurant enjoying the onshore breeze and burping contentedly. The scary thing is I worry I could get used to fuss like that.